After launching her first S/S ’18 collection, heralded for its silhouettes reminiscent of grandmothers’ aprons, updated rockabilly through big-check gingham and ric rac, and a play on prep, NYC designer Paris 99 Starn is launching her second collection. S/S ’19 takes inspiration from Starns’ grandmother’s home, her mother’s coming of age, and the transformation in societal conventions between these generations.
Inspiration begins with the idealized vision of domesticity in 1950’s America (the era in which her grandmother began to start a family), yet shuns this romanticized past by incorporating the liberation of the 60’s (the time in which her mother grew up). Starn, in the collection, incorporates textiles that were used in the mid century for both clothing and home decor, yet gives them a contemporary twist.
Dotted swiss, in her grandmothers home was used for bedding, yet in Starn’s S/S ‘19 collection, swiss dot is kept loose on the body and is adorned with cut-outs, paying homage to the burgeoning liberated sexuality present in 1960’s womenswear silhouettes. Included in the S/S ’19 collection is bull denim, denim in the ‘50’s embodied rebellion, while in the 60’s became a standard fashion for the young.
Paris 99 S/S ’19, playfully creates dainty denim formal wear adorned with ric rac trim reminiscent of the 50’s, but incorporates the hem lines of the 60’s. Vinyl, which her grandmother still uses today to cover couches, takes on a 60’s influence allowing for transparent glimpses of the body most fabrics would hide, and in this case is red for a modern-day edge. The dresses, pants, skirts, and blouses of S/S ’19 are no pastiche of a romanticized domesticated past: rather, through distinctive pairings and re-purposed fabrics, Starn alters the 1950’s home narrative by incorporating cuts from the ‘60’s, a decade that resisted repressive cultural norms, and adds a contemporary flare.
The S/S ‘19 Paris 99 collection bridges the restrictive ideas of female roles in the 1950’s to the liberation – both outside and inside the home – present in the 1960’s and ongoing today, particularly with the adornment of handmade cherry buttons and zipper pulls (Starn makes them herself) that are reminiscent of bowls filled with plastic fruits of grandmother’s kitchen, and the lucite high heels filled with plastic cherries Starn’s mother would wear when Starn was growing up. Going further, the dresses are friskily named after lyrics that incorporate the word “cherry.” The textiles, hemlines, and silhouettes, like the cherry, are symbols of the changing notions of feminine performativity over these three generations of women.
Stockists include: Galeries Lafayette, Lisa Says Gah, & Opening Ceremony NY
Ecommerce photographed by Jesse Dreyfus
Ecommerce models are Krithika Reddy, and Isabella Enrico
Ecommerce makeup by Sydney Utendahl
Lookbook photographed by Jack Siegel
Lookbook video filmed by Ondine Vinao
Lookbook models are Amelia Kring, Anna Sinreich, Daniela Lalita, Jessie Kohlman, Jo Rosenthal, Kira Shipway, Lisa Paravano, Margaret Austin, Mia Kerin, Morgan Connellee, Paige Reifler, Rio Viera-Newton, Sydney Utendahl
Website designed by Sierra Pittman